Hanging out with Lenin
Lenin's mausoleum is open to the public on Tuesday, Wednesay and Thursday from 10:00 to 1:00. When I told my staff yesterday that we were planning to leave the hotel at 11:00 to go view him, they laughed. They said that in summer the lines are hideously long and it would take forever to get in. I asked them if they had noticed, with last week's snow and all, that it was no longer summer.
We stuck with our plan, because there is no way I'm gonna open my eyes before 10:00. We got to Red Square around 11:30. The entrance to it was blocked and guarded by two female cops. We carefully approached and indicated our intention to enter the square. "Lenin?" one of them asked. We nodded and they let us through.
We walked towards the square and saw a short line in front of some metal detectors. That didn't look too bad at all. As we joined the queue, a cute policeman in jeans asked if we had cameras or mobiles with cameras. He pointed to a building where we could check these items. That took a minute and then we went back to the line. A few minutes later we were through the metal detectors and walking towards the mausoleum.
It's a small marble pyramid that sits in front of the Kremlin. You enter from the Red Square side. At the end of a short hallway is a policeman dressed in black that points to the left and indicates that you should take your hands out of your pockets. You turn left and there is another policeman, pointing right this time. At the bottom of the stairs is policeman number three that points to the right (at each point there is only one direction you can go).
You enter the room where Lenin is on display. He is in a glass case. You turn right and go up a few steps so you can get a better view. You first walk along his right side, from head to toe. Then you turn left so you walk along the bottom of his feet and then left again to walk along his left side.
You don't get very close to get a really good look, but he looks very waxy and pale. No sign of decay whatsoever, except maybe on the fingertips of his left hand. He still has facial hair and just lies there, dressed in a dark suit, arms slightly bent. His left hand lies flat on his leg, the other hand looks as if it might have been holding something at some point (like a flower, maybe). It's very hard to believe he is real and has been kept in this state for the 85 years he's been dead. I mean, how technologically advance could they have been in 1924? I reckon it's a wax statue by Madame Tussaud.
A woman in front of us stood still for too long and was tapped on the shoulder by yet another policeman who motioned for her to keep moving. A few people behind us started speaking to each other and were shushed very rudely by the police in the room. The entire interior is of black marble, which, along with the strict rules, makes the whole experience both gloomy and solemn. And a bit surreal.
After exiting Lenin's room you go through another corridor and then you're outside again. On your way out into the public part of Red Square you walk past the graves of several former Soviet leaders, such as Brezhnev, Andropov, Tchernenko and Stalin (but not Khrushchev). Then you collect your iPhone and you're done. The whole thing took less than twenty minutes (which of course I will make a point of telling my staff).










